![]() The yellow paint is Humbrol gloss enamel, again with white glue on the left and salt on the right. I had to scrub so hard to get both the glue and salt to release that I went through to bare plastic. The black paint is the Tamiya TS-14, with white glue on the left and salt on the right. I did experiment with the salt and white glue method on both Humbrol enamel and Tamiya Acrylic Lacquer and the method does not work as well with those paints. The left side of the hood more closely resembles my hood before it was restored. I think the salt has its place if you want heavier chipping, but if you want subtle, I think the white glue is a better choice. I found I had far control over the chipping medium using the white glue as opposed to the salt. For the salt I tried to carefully sprinkle small amounts on the hood after it had been wetted down.Īfter the white glue and salt had dried I airbrushed Tamiya X-2 acrylic paint over everything and once the white paint was dry I used a wet toothbrush to scrub off the paint to reveal the red oxide below. ![]() Using a very small piece of sponge I lightly applied the white glue by daubing it on the hood. In hindsight the sienna and orange could have been a bit heavier. Both were applied over Rustoleum red oxide enamel primer, which had small amounts of Testors raw sienna and orange randomly over sprayed in patches. One the passenger side of the hood (left side in photo) I used water soluble white glue and on the driver side (right side in photo) I used salt as the medium for the chipping. I conducted a small paint chipping experiment, which I hope proves useful for those of you who may wish to add rust, or patina to their car models.
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